We drove up Kings Canyon to Grant Grove Lodge where we left Diana’s car and carried on in mine (Subaru) to Giant Forest. We needed to pick up a permit there – a bit of a bother as we needed to be on the trail as early as possible, and the ranger wasn’t available until after 9.
Once we satisfied the ranger's requirements, we drove to the trailhead at Crescent Meadow. It is the most gorgeous green colour – rather like in Ireland. I found out later that the gorgeous green is from some kind of bog plant – that the meadow is as much a bog as a meadow.
We ate some delicious baconegg sandwiches we'd bought from Grant Grove, and then headed out along the High Sierra Trail at 10 AM. This trail is a 50 mile long Class 1 or 2 hiking trail in Sequoia National Park (this apparently means simple scrambling with the occasional use of hands for balance – ha).
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As we start out - Moro Rock - smoke from fires below us |
The trail crosses the Sierra Nevada from Crescent Meadows at about 6,700 feet, where we started, over the Great Western Divide
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Views of the Great Western Divide |
... to Mount Whitney at 10,075 feet. There is a risk of getting altitude sickness and we both hope we do not have to go through that. We were only doing the first 12 or so miles of it, to Bearpaw Meadow (7,800 feet) where we would stay in a “High Sierra Camp” – more of that later.
For us, the above described “simple scrambling” really meant a solid 8 or 9 hours of huffing and puffing - struggling like old timers. At our ages, a long uphill climb was a challenge; however, we were doggedly persistent - one foot ahead of the other all day (lungs hurt going uphill, knees on any downhill) - did not take any more rest stops than we really needed to. Apparently, on the whole hike, while we were up and down, we gained only about 1,500 feet overall. It certainly felt like every single step was up with no down in it at all.
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Views along the way |
Despite the energy expenditure, the landscape on which the gravel-ish trail was leading us was absolutely beautiful. It dipped and rose through trees, bushes, little wildflowers, grasses, rocks, gravel, vast expanses of bare granite and marvelous views.
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Flowering bush - may be California lilac |
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Wildflowers (Fivespot or Baby blue eyes) |
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Pink penstemon
We crossed over several branches of Panther Creek (loads of wildflowers) through a shady forest and arrived at Mehrton Creek (about 5.5 miles in) for a latish lunch stop (half hour) and foot soak in the glacier cold water.
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Panther or Mehrton Creek |
As we clambered up from the creek, we crossed over a wide reach of open granite. Above the creek there were more stunning views of the Great Western Divide and more gorgeous wildflowers.
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Little Blue Dome and Sugar Dome with Great Western Divide in the background |
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Succulent
Wallflower
One foot ahead of the other to more stunningly beautiful canyons and gorges.... more awkward creek crossings and exhausting switchbacks.
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Ninemile Creek |
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Views - not sure which peak |
.... followed by more gorgeous wildflowers to sooth our aching bodies.
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Wildflowers on a little bench high above us |
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Purple lupin and Indian paintbrush |
At Buck Creek (about 10 miles in) while trying to make my way safely over the creek, my foot slipped off a rock. I briefly thought I’d injured my ankle and foot. In fact, all I’d done was slide and fall, land in the freezing cold creek on one leg. Brrrr. ... On with the trek.
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Buck Creek |
The trail criss-crossed up the other side of Buck Canyon and then it was straight up an achingly difficult ridge (500 feet? – and, like the "Little Engine that Could" – I whispered "I think I can, I think I can", etc) at the end of which I was practically in tears.
As Diana says: she “did her loudest grampus puffing, while I developed a technique of bending over my hiking stick to stretch out my aching back. We made quite a sight, but at last we crested the ridge and strolled a little more through the woods until we saw the welcome little white tents of Bearpaw.
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Bearpaw Meadow tent cabins |
On arrival, we flopped down on the porch – lemonade and brownies in hand - with the incomparable Bearpaw view before us - the giant panorama of the Great Western Divide, which looks so close you could reach out to touch it.”
Bearpaw High Sierra Camp, erected on huge slabs of granite, is quite small (6 tent cabins with two lovely beds, fresh sheets, comforters, etc.). While it is very rustic/basic, it has a full time staff who provide fresh cooked breakfasts and dinners as well as wood chopped for stoves so we could have hot showers – oh joy!!. This is the best of "Glamping" (glamour camping)
Guests can go hiking during the day in the amazing High Sierra and come back to the wonderful camp where the staff have prepared hot dinners and hot showers for the weary hikers.
The showers were absolute heaven and this night, our chefs had prepared: tri-tip steak with portobello mushroom pasta, vegetables and salad, followed by luscious home-made lemon meringue pie. The views were astounding.
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View from Bearpaw Camp porch |
The glow of the setting sun (alpenglow) was just beginning and we had such a striking view from the porch. There was a campfire to sit around after dinner (with three other campers); however, we were so exhausted, we did not stick around for very long.
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Night, night all |
Over the course of the day, we’d seen a tremendous number of wildflowers. Thanks to Diana’s blog (http://lightbrightandsparkling.blogspot.ca) I know these to have been: “purple Chinese Houses, shocks of Penstemon in pink, purple, and bright red, as well as delicate wild geraniums, golden wallflowers, red Indian paintbrush, lavender lupine, orange umbrella-like leopard lilies, crimson columbine with their little yellow faces, drooping purple Jeffrey's shooting stars, tiny baby blue lips, and white, purple-tipped fivespot. Swathes of tiny pink gilia were also prominent, turning hillsides pink.” (thanks Diana for letting me use your descriptions).
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